8 min read
North Korea's reopening: An Australian tour guide reveals what it's like to travel there
It's been five years since foreigners could visit North Korea. Now, it's set to reopen. This is what tourists tend to find surprising and scary when visiting the hermit kingdom.
Published 18 August 2024 6:38am
By Caroline Riches
Source: SBS News
Image: Tour operators Neil Kirby (centre) and Gergo Vaczi (right) run guided tours to North Korea, whose leader Kim Jong-un (left) has announced will re-open to tourists. (SBS News)
As North Korea readies to reopen to foreign tourists this year after nearly five years of COVID-triggered closures, tour guides are excited to return to a destination they say is misunderstood by the West and full of surprises.
Beijing-based Koryo Tours announced that tourism to Samjiyon and "potentially" the rest of the country will resume in December.
Another Chinese tour operator, KTG Tours, also received news that tourists could visit the mountainous city this winter and hopes other areas, including the capital Pyongyang, will follow soon.
A view of Pyongyang's colourful buildings from the Juche Tower. Source: Getty / Stephen Anthony Rohan/iStockphoto
There have been several high-profile detention cases over the past decade, including that of who was detained under accusations of espionage while studying in Pyongyang in 2019.
Sigley was detained for a week and was released after help from Sweden, which has an embassy in North Korea — something Australia and many other Western nations do not.
"Australia doesn't have an embassy in North Korea. We aren't able to provide regular consular services to Australian citizens in North Korea. Our ability to provide consular services in North Korea is extremely limited," the Smart Traveller website warns.
'We've been waiting for years'
Even when allowed, foreign tourists must join pre-approved tours and be accompanied by two local guides at all times.
Gergo Vaczi at Koryo Tours, who's been to North Korea 27 times, said he's excited at the prospect of returning.
"We've been waiting for this for five years," he told SBS News.
Gergo Vaczi has visited North Korea 27 times and says it's a country full of "misconceptions". Source: Supplied
"There are so many misconceptions. The chance to see it for yourself and interact with Koreans is a real highlight," he said.
Neil Kirby of Gold Coast-based Travel Masters, who's led tour groups to North Korea, ruled by dictator Kim Jong-un three times.
He is eager to return once the country opens up and DFAT eases its travel warnings.
Australia has previously had a "reconsider your need to travel" advisory in place, including in the lead-up to the COVID-19 pandemic. This is a level below "do not travel".
Kirby described the country as "very introverted, misunderstood and misrepresented".
"Its people don't have a voice. There are so many myths around North Korea, and the only way to debunk them is to go there," he said.
So, what can travellers to North Korea expect, and how real are the dangers?
Source: SBS News
What's crossing the border like?
Crossing North Korea's border can be "a little scary", Kirby said.
Travel Masters tours enter North Korea by train from the Chinese city of Dandong on the border.
"Customs is quite an experience. The North Korean guards come on board with these broad hats and check everyone's passports and phones for things like political or religious documents," he said.
"It feels very authoritarian but really it's just a lot of bravado."
Australian Neil Kirby, who leads tours to North Korea, says he's always felt very safe there. Source: Supplied
What are the restrictions for foreign tourists?
Tour operators say that international visitors face numerous restrictions, such as not being allowed to roam freely or leave the hotel without a tour guide, restrictions on using local currency, and prohibitions on wearing clothing with South Korean or United States flags or religious messages.
"It's also forbidden to criticise North Korea's leaders and political system, spread religious propaganda, and take photos of the military, construction sites or anything that might be interpreted in a negative light in the West," Vaczi said.
"You have to be careful not to be labelled a potential spy."
What are some of North Korea's key attractions?
Tour companies say visiting North Korea offers a rare experience. Before the pandemic, the country welcomed only around 5,000 Western tourists annually.
"It certainly gives you bragging rights," Kirby said.
Tours typically include visits to Pyongyang's key monuments, a ride on the city's famously decadent metro, and a trip to .
Pyongyang's subway system comprises two lines and is a tourist attraction for visitors to North Korea. Source: Getty / Sun Peng
"You see miles and miles of paddy fields, soybean plantations, mountains, and little villages with traditional Korean-style houses," he said. "Pyongyang may be very austere, but the countryside is really pretty."
Typical state-built houses for residents in North Korea's countryside. Source: Getty / znm/iStockphoto
What do foreign tourists find most surprising?
Many international visitors are shocked by the lack of traffic and commercial advertising in North Korea's cities.
"When you walk in the streets of Pyongyang, there's propaganda everywhere. It's as if they won the Korean War last week. They've got a leader who is godlike and provides everything for them," Kirby said.
Tour operators say many international visitors are shocked by the lack of traffic in North Korean cities. Source: Getty / Kim Won Jin/AFP
"We have a trusted relationship with our colleagues there but we're unsure if we can ask certain things or if we'll get honest answers," Vaczi said. "You always have to be aware of what you say."
Tour operator Gergo Vaczi says that while there are many restrictions on foreign visitors to North Korea, it's a fascinating country to visit. Source: Supplied
"In Pyongyang, women are expected to wear skirts below the knee and a blouse, while men usually wear a suit. Though women who do physical work, such as on farms, are allowed to wear pants."
What are the North Korean people like?
Vaczi said many visitors are pleasantly surprised by how happy and normal the people in North Korea appear, challenging the common perception of a suppressed population.
"People think that it's all about politics and everyone is sad, but that's not the case. People live their everyday lives, finding joy in simple things like having great food, relaxing in the park or enjoying a national holiday," he said.
"They face the same problems as people outside North Korea, such as making enough money for their kids' education or dealing with parental pressure to get married."
Kirby said while North Koreans can be curious and often suspicious of Westerners, they are warm when they feel at ease.
"They still view the West as the enemy, but once you break that barrier, they open up," he said. "Some of the North Koreans we've managed to have a conversation with have been absolutely lovely."
There's propaganda everywhere. It's as if they won the Korean War last week.Tour operator Neil Kirby at Travel Masters
Is there good food and shopping?
As in South Korea, rice, noodles and kimchi are staple foods, though the dishes in North Korea tend to be less spicy.
A local favourite is Pyongyang Naengmyeon, a cold buckwheat noodles dish served in beef, chicken, or pork broth topped with pickled radish, eggs, and pieces of meat.
Cold noodles are a favourite in North Korea. Source: Getty / simon_photos
Kirby said there's a notable lack of souvenir shops where you can spend your cash.
"When you visit one of the palaces or museums, all you can buy are books and posters. There's not much in terms of retail therapy."
Smart Traveller says those who travel there should only shop at stores designated for foreigners.
Is it safe for foreigners?
The , who was arrested in North Korea and later died after being released in a vegetative state, remains a stark reminder of the potential risks of travelling to North Korea.
Warmbier was accused of trying to steal a propaganda poster and was originally sentenced to 15 years of imprisonment with hard labour.
American student Otto Warmbier spent 17 months in captivity in North Korea for allegedly stealing a propaganda poster. Source: Getty / Bill Pugliano
Smart Traveller warns that authorities watch travellers closely.
"They may search belongings in your hotel room or monitor your email, internet, phone and fax usage," it says on its website.
It also warns it's illegal for travellers to take anything of anything other than designated public tourist sites.
Many seemingly innocent activities may be perceived as spying," it says.
Kirby and Vaczi said North Korea is remarkably safe — if you do the right thing.
"If you stick to the rules, you are fine and safe," Vaczi explained.
"But if you break the rules, then the consequences are potentially going to be worse than in other countries."
Kirby said his company only takes genuinely curious and respectful travellers.
"When they say bow at a statue, you bow at a statue. It's as simple as that.
"We don't take backpackers. We don't want the thrill-seekers wanting to discover the 'real' North Korea."
With reporting by Agence France-Presse.
