Winter in Australia is low-key, but for those born in tropical countries, it might as well be the South Pole. Of course, that’s just the drama of the uninitiated like me and a few others I know. This means double to triple layers of clothing, coats, scarves, beanies, warm woollen socks, and the iconic Ugg boots.
While winter brings rain and icy cold breezes, it’s also a time to bring out warming comfort dishes and soups, from to , bulalo, and tinola. In this month’s, one of the chefs and founders of about a dish popular across every corner of the Philippines' 7,000 islands—the classic Bulalo. However, there is a lesser-known but equally comforting, delicious, and perfect dish to warm our winter nights from the Panay region: Kansi.
Kansi is the bulalo’s cousin. Similar to bulalo, kansi is made with beef shanks and bone marrow, slowly simmered until soft and the tendons are gelatinous. What makes kansi different is the use of a souring agent called “batuan,” an indigenous fruit from the Visayas region. Traditionally, it is cooked with unripe jackfruit, lemongrass, and annatto seeds, creating a soup with a yellow to orange tinge.
It is also known as Sinigang na Bulalo for those unfamiliar with the dish. Imagine a sour, tangy soup rich in deep beefy flavours with slight bitter notes from the jackfruit. Kansi was mentioned as one of Iloilo’s specialty dishes when the province was named the Now that’s an impressive history for a dish!
Osso Buco Kansi Credit: Anna Manlulo
- 1.5 kg beef osso buco (2-3 pieces)
- 1 onion, sliced
- 2-3 pieces long green chillies
- 1 565 grams can sliced young green jackfruit, drained
- 1-2 piece lemongrass, white ends pounded
- 1 teaspoon annatto seeds
- 3 tablespoons batuan powder
- 2 tablespoons mild olive oil (or any neutral cooking oil)
- 1.5 litres water
- 2 bunches bok choy (optional)
Method
- Using a 5 litre deep pot, turn on heat to medium, add the oil and cook the annatto seeds until the oil turns orange. Remove the seeds from the pan and discard.
- Add the osso buco and sear each side until brown. In the same pot, add the onions and cook stirring until soft.
- Add water into the pot and bring to a boil, then turn down heat to a low simmer. Add lemongrass and simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until the meat is tender.
- Add the batuan powder and stir slowly. Add the jackfruit slices and cook until soft.
- Add the long green chillies, and continue to simmer for another 20 minutes.
- Pour into a serving bowl. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
- Fish sauce with calamansi and chillies optional dipping sauce.
Note:
- If batuan powder is unavailable, sinigang (tamarind) mix may be used.
- Using bone marrow (bulalo cuts) will take longer to cook.
- Add the bok choy with the green chillies, if using.
- Can be served with fish sauce with a squeeze of calamansi/lemon and chillies as dipping sauce.
