Melbourne fine dining chef creates Filipino-inspired artisanal pizza

While it took Chef Migo Razon years and hundreds of alterations to develop the perfect dough, it took one night of experimenting with leftovers to kickstart his line of Filipino-inspired pizzas.

apoy, filipino pizza, pizza

Migo Razon of Apoy: Stone Baked Pizza Source: Migo Razon

Highlights
  • Migo had difficulties under the 457 visa.
  • From working as a chef in Regional QLD and Regional NSW, Migo moved to Melbourne.
  • He owns Apoy: Stone Baked Pizza.
"What makes a pizza amazing is the quality of each ingredient. It's about being able to have a good balance of each component so that you can taste them collectively," Chef Migo Razon shares.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Chef Migo Razon Source: Migo Razon
In as much as amazing pizza is greater than the sum of its slices, Migo's expertise and his struggles in Australia added up to what he is today - a renowned Melbourne chef with a strong culinary community and a promising pizza endeavour.

Difficulties with 457

Migo had an offer to come to Australia in 2008 after winning a market basket competition, but turned it down.

"I had other plans then," he shares, adding, "But I was given an offer again in 2010. I accepted, realising that for me to be able to really push my culinary career forward, I had to go abroad."

The offer involved this self-proclaimed city boy moving to a more regional setting.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Migo and family Source: Migo Razon
"I became head chef of a Modern Australian restaurant in Townsville, in Queensland. In 2010, Townsville wasn't as progressive when it came to cuisine.

"I also had to get used to living in a regional area. I've lived in Manila my whole life! It took a lot of getting used to."

Aside from the lifestyle adjustment, Migo admits going through challenging years holding a 457 work visa.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Aside from the lifestyle adjustment, Migo admits going through challenging years holding a 457 work visa. Source: Migo Razon
"I was earning less than my sous chef. I came to Australia for better opportunities - why was I getting paid less?

"I had no voice. I would get yelled at and deameaned. I found another employer in the area, but I felt helpless because at that point, I needed them more than they needed me."

The difficult years of not feeling needed would lead Migo to find a job at Coffs Harbour in New South Wales.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Bonville Golf Resort Source: Migo Razon
"I became a junior sous chef for the multi-awarded Bonville Golf Resort and worked myself up to senior sous chef. I eventually became head chef of their other resort.

"I felt valued and part of the team. I learned so much there and they sponsored me for a PR. I was grateful to them but I missed living in the city."

The comforts of the city

Missing life in the city, Migo decided to apply as Executive Chef in DoubleTree in Hilton.

"I got the job in Melbourne in 2019. My family and I were able to move before the pandemic hit.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
"That was my dream coming to Australia - to be one of those who would raise the banner of Filipino cuisine here." Source: Migo Razon
"Before the pandemic, I had such a memorable time there. I had the chance to introduce Filipino food to the menu. That was my dream coming to Australia - to be one of those who would raise the banner of Filipino cuisine here."

In his effort to raise the banner of Filipino cuisine, Migo created reimagined Filipino classics such as sisig [made of pig snout, ears, belly and other parts] served in a tostada with tomato salsa and garlic emulsion and; bistek [beef steak] cooked for 72 hours in sauce and served with an onion soubise.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
"But when the pandemic hit, the hotel industry became one of the most affected businesses. It was such a trying time." Source: Migo Razon
"When the pandemic hit, the hotel industry became one of the most affected businesses. It was such a trying time. I had to let go of a lot of people who I considered to be family. There were a lot of sleepless nights because of that.

"My hours were cut as well and I needed to find another way to earn money."

After working in DoubleTree, Migo moved to The Savoy Hotel on Little Collins. He currently works in the Sheraton Hotel.

Pizza is best shared with friends

Another way Migo thought of to earn money was to focus on one of his favourite dishes to make - pizza.

"I've reworked my pizza dough recipe at least a hundred times over the years.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
"I've reworked my pizza dough recipe at least a hundred times over the years." Source: Malidate Van from Pexels
"During the pandemic, my wife started her homebased business, Manila Bites. We thought of selling pizzas through it. We had usual flavours like Margherita."

Migo admits that the pizzas didn't really take off because "the flavours were too common".

"I had leftover pizza dough and leftover sisig in the fridge so I thought of combining the two. I was surprised - sisig pizza actually worked!"
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Sisig Pizza Source: Migo Razon
From his initial sisig pizza, Apoy: Stone Baked Pizza ['apoy' is Filipino for "fire'] was born. Currently, Migo takes orders online and clients can pick up the pizzas in his home in Williams Landing.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Bistek Pizza Source: Migo Razon
His offerings include bistek with caramelised onions, leeks, soubise and fior de latte; tuyo [dried fish] with capers and mozzarella and; longganisa [Filipino sausage] with salted duck egg, tomato and coriander.

"My favourite is the tocino [marinated breakfast meat] with bagoong balayan [fermented fish sauce]. Bagoong balayan takes the place of anchovies.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Tocino Pizza Source: Migo Razon
"The recipe for the kesong puti [white cheese made from carabao's milk] I put in my pizza I got from John Rivera of Kariton Sorbetes. He'll get mad if I don't mention that," Migo jokes.

John and other Filipino chefs Migo met in Melbourne have become his solid support system.
Migo razon, apoy, filipino pizzas, pizza
Migo is grateful to have a solid support system in Melbourne of like-minded chefs and foodies. Source: Migo Razon
"We give each other ideas when it comes to dishes and concepts. We uplift each other and are there for one another no matter what. It's awesome because we also have the same advocacy of promoting Filipino food here in Australia.

"Having the community I have here and being able to promote Filipino food in my own way...It makes me feel that I made the right decision to move to Australia despite the initial struggles."

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5 min read
Published 30 June 2021 11:45pm
By Nikki Alfonso-Gregorio

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