The ever-evolving art of Japanese soufflé pancake

Since its birth in Hawaii, soufflé pancakes have continued to evolve across countries, captivating those who come across this fusion of cooking, science and art.

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From the explosive popularity of tiramisu in the early 90s to the Philippines nata de coco craze and, more recently, Basque cheesecake and , Japan's dessert trend is a dynamic and ever-changing landscape.

The trend often extends beyond its borders, becoming more prominent internationally, like the , and , just to name a few.

Among these desserts, one standout is .
Despite its name, Japanese soufflé pancakes have its origins in Honolulu Hawaii.

According to Honolulu's magazine, , and also widely echoed in many Japanese travel books, the origins of the fluffy pancake can be traced back to Hawaii's brunch café, called , which opened its doors in 2008.

At the time, their menu did not include pancakes, which disappointed many of their customers, the majority of whom were Japanese.

Pancakes were becoming a huge trend in the country — Australia's Bills is widely recognised as the instigator of the trend, with the opening of the late chef's first venture abroad, in Shichirigahama, Kanagawa prefecture, in 2008.

The owner of Cream Pot decided to serve pancakes but with his twist. He combined his love for soufflé, a French dish made by folding beaten egg whites into a flavourful base, giving birth to what we know as Japanese soufflé pancakes today.
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Credit: Cream Pot / Instagram @creampothawaii
Soon after, soufflé pancakes began popping up on menus around Japan, with large franchises quickly riding the trend of the pillowy soft pancakes, taking them across the globe.

Gram was one of the first stores to bring the fluffy soufflé pancake to Australia, a global franchise established in Osaka in 2014.
Scarlett Zhao co-owner of Gram Australia, remembers being "captivated" when she first encountered soufflé pancakes in Japan.

"It was unlike anything I'd ever tasted before. "

"I wanted to bring it to Australia because I believed that Australians, with their love for quality and innovative cuisine, would appreciate this unique dessert. It was about sharing something exceptional and creating a new experience for dessert lovers here."
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Scarlett Zhao, Gram Cafe & Pancakes (Australia) Credit: Scarlett Zhao
Four years since their opening, Zhao says people's love for the fluffy pancake has continued.

"We've noticed that people are not just coming for the novelty but are returning for the unique texture and taste of our pancakes."

Kumo Desserts in Melbourne is a newcomer to the world of soufflé pancakes, opening its doors in 2023.

Brainchild Jason Tan first came across soufflé pancake while travelling across Asia.
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Jason Tan, Kumo Desserts Credit: Jason Tan
"Hong Kong had more of a traditional style, while Japan had a strong egg flavour, and Taiwan was more buttery," he recalls.

Tan says he was so inspired.

"I just wanted to create my style and showcase it to the people of Melbourne."

Tan says he is still perfecting his pancake, which he says has a buttery flavour and is folded, unlike the traditional pancake.

"Souffle pancake is such a hard product to stay consistent. I find little details to improve every time. I work seven days a week, studying every detail."

He adds that so many factors contribute to the consistency and quality of the pancake.
" I am close. I have installed custom modifications on machinery and systems. I also control the temperature and humidity in the kitchen, too."

"I just want the customers to have the best experience."

Melbourne's cooking instructor, Mayu Tomaru, says she became deeply consumed with the art of soufflé pancake making during the city's extended COVID lockdown.
Mayu Tomaru Mayu's Kitchen
"Even if you make it the same way, the fluffiness may be different each time, or the inside may not be cooked,

"It was a lot of trial and error," she says.

"The process of making meringues is just as crucial as the temperature of the pan," she adds.

"Heat the pan on medium heat, then allow to cool slightly on a wet cloth. This ensures that the pancakes cook slowly and without burning."

Ms Tomaru says soufflé pancake is one of the most requested recipes in her class.

"It's interesting to see how the Western food culture has influenced Japanese cuisine and how these newly created dishes then find their way back to the Western culture and become popular."

Scarlet from Gram adds,

"Soufflé pancake is not just a dessert; it's an experience with its fluffy texture and delicate flavour. It combines novelty, taste, and a bit of culinary adventure, which resonates well with the Australian food culture.

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Published 30 July 2024 8:21pm
By Yumi Oba
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