It comes as no surprise that the Portuguese bask in their love of seafood, simply look at their location. On average, the more seafood per capita than any other country in Europe and they spend three times more on it than the average total EU spend - that's some serious seafood love right there.
Portugal has a long history of preserving fish and salted codfish (bacalhau) has been an important part of the Portuguese diet. The canned fish industry boomed in Portugal at the end of the 19th century as it became an affordable and convenient source of protein, especially during the World Wars. In the 1970s many factories began to close and it was a make or break period for the product. “The canning industry was one of the great engines of the Portuguese economy,” , co-founder and managing partner of tinned fish brand Miss Can, tells Eater. “But the tinned food was seen by locals as not a very noble product.” This changed as restaurants and bars across the country began to lead a canned fish revival.
Don’t be surprised to stumble across bars, restaurants and entire stores across Portugal, completely dedicated to selling tins of sardines, mackerel, cod, anchovies, and tuna as well as wider seafood options of mussels, squid and octopus. The wall-to-wall collage includes tins of seafood preserved in olive oils, vinegar, spices and tomato-based sauces, and is a homage to Portuguese culture and history. From a “poor man’s food” to a prime export, it's also a gourmet gift idea that can be wrapped in colourful paper at several speciality stores.
Portuguese brands span from the original to the relatively newer with several famed and classic favourites that fall in between. You can purchase a variety of brands from local supermarkets to several speciality stores, with the oldest shop in Lisbon being the very popular . A family-run business passed down over three generations, you immediately step into a time-travelling paradise. Even if you don’t like seafood or fish, its old-school feel and nod to history shine through, having been operational for almost 90 years and stocking three main brands - Minor, Tricana and Prata do Mar.
If you want to eat like a Lisbon local, then you can serve canned seafood with anything from pasta to a salad or simply on top of toasted sourdough with a few extra herbs and condiments, perfect for petiscos, a Portuguese tapas-style bite. It might not be as kitsch in its bright packaging but you can find several brands here in Australia across delicatessens and speciality grocers and stores such as . And if you (or someone you know) is travelling to Lisbon, then make sure they fill their suitcases with colourful tins of preserved fish. Expect to buy tins like people do postcards across Portugal.
While it seems rather obscure to get excited over canned fish, it’s incredible to think how this product went from a cheap and easy staple to a restaurant gem, as well as a supreme souvenir and gift idea.
