Mavka, located in Waitara in Sydney's North Shore, is a home away from home for Sydney's Eastern European community. It's not only the Ukrainian food that resonates with the customers but the blue and yellow coffee cups and the Ukrainian flag proudly hanging on the wall.
Restaurant owner, Oleg Sutulov, migrated from Kyiv to Australia in the early 2000s, seeking safety from the turbulence, job insecurity and hyperinflation in Ukraine. Now, he's helping other Ukrainians flee their homeland by employing refugees who have arrived in Australia since Russia invaded Ukraine in February 2022.
"Most of our employees are young people, quite often well-educated," Oleg explains. "It felt right giving them the opportunity to adjust to Australian life quicker by having a job and friendly working environment. Through us, they can still feel connected to their homeland, as we have a lot of Ukrainian customers coming to the restaurant."
In the three months since opening, Mavka has welcomed customers of all nationalities, interested in learning more about Ukrainian food and culture.
"Ukrainian cuisine is one of the best and at the same time, one of the least known in Australia," Oleg says. "People come to have a good meal, but also ask questions about our country and our food, and try to learn a few Ukrainian words."
Despite his business background, Oleg always dreamed of opening a restaurant.
Nalysnyky (pancakes) stuffed with homemade cheese and raisins. Source: Mavka
"I planned to for a while but with a different cuisine," Oleg reflects. "Terrible events of the Russian invasion last year changed things. We saw lots of interest in everything Ukrainian and at the same time, we realised lots of ladies coming to Australia from Ukraine would need a job. Doing what they usually do in their home kitchen but now in commercial one sounded like a perfect transition."
Through us, they can still feel connected to their homeland, as we have a lot of Ukrainian customers coming to the restaurant.
Oleg's wife, Oksana, and mother-in-law, Neila, designed the menu using recipes passed down through generations. Their talented team of Ukrainian refugees cook.
"We can employ Ukrainian ladies with not much English or commercial experience because we are positioning ourselves as a restaurant serving food 'the way grandma cooks it'," Oleg explains. "As we say in Ukraine, 'any Ukrainian lady can cook. If she says she is Ukrainian but cannot cook, ask her again if she is really Ukrainian?' This is a joke but reflects quite a bit the reality."
Almost all patrons order Mavka's hand-made varenyky (dumplings) filled with potatoes, meats or cheese, and served with the diner's choice of sour cream or caramelised onion, and fried speck. Another firm favourite is the golubtsi (cabbage rolls) filled with rice, turkey and chicken, baked in tomato sauce, and served with sour cream and mushroom sauce.
Oleg, his wife Oksana, sons Timothy and Daniel, daughter Anastasia and mother-in-law Neila with a Ukrainian spread. Source: Mavka
Oleg loves holodets, "a meat jelly dish which takes a good two days to prepare," he explains. "We usually had it only for big holidays in Ukraine because of that. It’s perfect with mashed potato and hot mustard or horseradish."
Mavka also has a strong list of traditional soups and salads, plus pancakes made from homemade cheese (syrnyky), stuffed with raisins and cheese (nalysnyky), or eaten like a wrap with pork and turkey (mlynzi).
It's worth trying Mavka's freshly baked Ukrainian pastries and cakes, including Kyiv, Prague and Napoleon. Mavka's weekly specials justify a return visit too.
Oleg and his family are proud to run a Ukrainian restaurant in Australia. They invite everyone to their restaurant to try Ukrainian cuisine, and hope that one day, they can invite customers to visit their homeland.
Love the story? Follow the author Melissa Woodley here: Instagram . Photos credited to Mavka.
Mon 7am-2pm
Tue-Fri: 7am - 2pm, 5:30pm-9:30 pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-2pm, 5:30-9:30 pm
