thinks that cooking can be an act of love. The acclaimed Sydney chef, who’s best known for his work at , the moody Potts Point eatery known for its inventive, vegetable-focused menu, was shaped by the Hungarian dishes his grandmother made for his grandfather. These memories set the stage for his new Potts Point venue, .
“My grandfather lost a lot of his family in World War II and basically came to Australia and met my grandmother, who was an amazing cook,” he tells SBS. “He didn’t know how to cook Hungarian food, so she learned to cook it because she wanted him to eat the things he grew up with. It was always special for our family when she made these dishes. The name of the restaurant, Ételek, is Hungarian for food. But it reflects these memories as well.”
Wolfers, along with sommelier Marc Dempsey, has trialled versions of Ételek at and in Sydney and in Canberra. But the latest incarnation, an airy, elegant space dotted with dark wood tables and hot-pink touches, will unfold at the until October. It will give Wolfers and Dempsey the opportunity to better connect with diners while pioneering new ideas.
The pop-up has set up in Potts Point – for now. Source: Ételek
Here, Wolfers will serve his interpretation of , a type of that owes its name to láng, the Hungarian word for flame (the bread, which apparently dates , was originally cooked in brick ovens and served for ).
It was always special for our family when she made these dishes. The name of the restaurant, Ételek, is Hungarian for food. But it reflects these memories as well.
Other standouts from the menu include , topped with hot sauce and pickled cucumber, nokedli dumplings with walnut and sea urchin, and with chickpea miso and fennel, inspired by an uncle who cooks Wolfers' family curries.
“Bread has always been a big part of my cooking repertoire – lángos is basically deep-fried bread and traditionally it’s quite sweet and yeasty and really flat,” he explains. “We present it in a way that’s a little more refined. I culture the cream myself and make a dukkah with Hungarian flavours like linseeds, poppy seeds, sweet paprika. It’s really a special occasion dish. My grandmother also used to make the most amazing and I made that into a [vegetarian] main dish – you wouldn’t know it was parsnip and it’s a fun way to turn a classic into something really exciting.”
Wolfers has created a clever meat-free schnitzel made with parsnip. (Jun Chen) Source: Jun Chen
Wolfers hopes to acquaint Sydney diners with the depth and complexity of Jewish and Hungarian food – cuisines that have been under-represented in the city. But he also wants Ételek to be the kind of place where diners can enjoy his dishes with family and friends.
“Jewish and Hungarian food is more diverse than people think it is; but although the food is a big part of it, so is creating a place that is fun and sophisticated – where people can be relaxed, share dishes and eat with their hands,” he says. "After a promising three-months, I’m eager to give diners more reasons to come back and see us. As part of the extended pop-up (now until New Year's Eve), dishes will be lighter, and make the most of the season’s new produce’ says Wolfers.
5 - 9 Roslyn Street, Potts Point, NSW
Wed-Sat dinner from 5pm; Sun lunch from 2pm (until 31 December, 2018)
