I rarely go out to eat at an Indian restaurant in Sydney, considering that I make the food all day, every day at home. But when I do, I like to dine at a restaurant that serves a thali because then I can taste many dishes at one time rather than ordering just one or two and glancing at the table next to me, wishing I'd asked for what they had.
What is a thali you will ask? A is not a cuisine, but a plate made of metal or banana leaf on which small portions of a lot of different dishes are served. Every component is unique and adds a different texture, flavour and consistency.
Thali has its roots in the Indian medicinal science of , which believes that one must eat food that elevates the six different flavour profiles (sweet, astringent, salty, pungent, bitter and sour) to maintain a healthy digestive system. From a nutritional point of view, a thali provides carbs in the form of breads made with different flours, rice, or millet. There's also yoghurt, buttermilk, and various types of pickles to aid digestion and there are meat or plant-based proteins. The combined ingredients contain vitamins, fibre and minerals – making a thali a fully balanced meal.
A thali vividly presented on banana leaf. Source: Bhavna Kalra
Regional thalis
There are 29 states in India, which means there is a huge variety of options to choose from. Here are some of my favourite regional thalis that I have eaten.
Malwani thali
is on the Western Indian coast, in Maharashtra. The town is known for its pristine beaches and delicious fish and meat preparations. A common component of local thalis is sol kadhi, a drink made with coconut milk and (an ancient medicinal fruit) that helps you wash down the spicy preparations and beat the heat. There is heavy use of coconut in the curries.
Kolhapuri thali
Located in the western part of Maharashtra, the city of is not just famous for its leather flip-flops and pure but also for its very spicy cuisine and meat-based dishes. A good Kolhapuri thali will feature proteins cooked in a white sauce called pandhara rassa and a spicy fiery red meat curry named tambadaa rassa.
A thali from Kolhapuri highlights meaty dishes from the region. Source: Bhavna Kalra
Gujarati thali
Due to the heavy influence of and in , there is a prevalence of vegetarian food with a proliferation of fried snacks called nashto, which are found in many homes. No self-respecting Gujrati will travel anywhere with their supply of nashto in their luggage. So, it is obvious that a Gujarati thali will have many types of fried snacks including poppadoms made with rice or flour, served with main dishes comprising lentils, vegetables, and desserts eaten with different types of bread, rice preparations, pickles and chutneys.
Punjabi thali
The fertile north belt of India is known for its diverse landscape – this state has it all. So, obviously, the food is also as wide-ranging as the land and its people. The invaders who came to India via the north also had a huge influence on the cuisine and culture. This diversity hasn't always translated to Australia, where many Indian restaurants serve a limited version of Punjab food (butter chicken, naan and saag paneer). A Punjabi thali shows that there's much more to the cuisine: tempered with spices, chickpeas, and sarson ka saag (mustard greens) served with various types of bread, but my favourite is makki ki roti (bread made with corn flour) cooked in a lot of butter and buttermilk.
Rajasthani thali
Rajasthan is a hot and arid state with a scarcity of fresh greens, so the thali from here is made with a lot of ingenious ingredients, including a variety of flours. A specialty of the state is called , hard roasted balls of wheat which are cracked open and served with a lentil stew, jaggery and a generous amount of .
Royal thali
India has many royal dynasties and the cuisines of their kitchens offer a taste of the past. Usually made for monarchs and special dignitaries, the food would be served in silver and gold thalis as a sign of opulence – with rich, creamy dishes that would knock your socks off. Many years ago, I had the chance to eat one such royal thali and it was pretty spectacular.
Religious or fasting thalis
Fasting and feasting are a big part of Indian culture, and we cook to celebrate religious occasions. It is very common to get fasting food in many Indian restaurants across Australia.
There are 29 states in India, which means there is a huge variety of options to choose from.
Sadhya
Kerala, which is lush with greenery and coconut trees in many backyards, is the state known as ‘’. One of its most popular vegetarian meals is sadhya, made during the local rice harvest festival called . Served on a banana leaf instead of a metal plate, the sadhya consists of up to of curries, fried vegetables, chutneys and desserts, all made from scratch just for the feast.
Navratri thali
During the many Hindus fast in honour of the mother goddess. During the fast, one is meant to abstain from everyday grains like wheat and rice. So a Navratri thali will have sago or millet and bread made with gluten-free flour. More importantly, the food during Navratri is cooked with (rock salt) instead of regular table salt.
A Saatvik thali features vegetarian dishes that are 'pure'. Source: Bhavna Kalra
Saatvik thali
Food and religion are intertwined in India, so when you visit a temple, you will find that there is a feast prepared for the temple deity, which is symbolically offered to the gods as ‘bhog’ and then shared with everyone who visits the temple as ‘prashad’, an offering from the deity. Food cooked in temples is made with fresh local ingredients with no onion, garlic, meat, or alcohol, so it is considered (pure).
Regardless of which thali you like, it's important to note that there are sub-cuisines in every region and depending on the religion you follow and which part of the state you're in, the food changes. So, if you ever want to get a sense of what Indian cuisine really is, try a thali at a restaurant and see how it opens up your palate to what Indian food is really about.
Flex those Indian ingredients
How to whip up an Indian thali in less than an hour
